Pensula de Azuero and Santa Catalina

                                      Peninsula de Azuero and Beyond

      We drove up and out of the crater surrounding El Valle, found our way west along the Interamerican  Highway, then south via la Carretera National to Pedasi.  It was a long trip, and although the highway is excellent the speed limit is about 25 mph in places.  There were plenty of police with radar guns so we thought it prudent to at least try to pay attention to our speed.  It was quite easy to get lost when going through towns along the highway, too. 

     The Azuero Peninsula is farm country.  We passed miles of sugar cane and had planned to stop at a sugar processing plant but we couldn't find it.  If the fields weren't covered in sugar cane, or the remains of harvested sugar cane, they were pastures for cows, lots of big white brahman cows.  We thought it odd we were told not to order beef in Panama because it is "like shoe leather".  

     We finally got to Pedasi, one of the surfing capitals of Panama only to find it not on the coast.  Playa Pedasi (Pedasi Beach) had no accommodations but there were some in town.  But why would we want to stay there?  It was hot and unappealing so we backtracked to Playa el Uvertio.  That's not so great either but for one night it was ok.  And the sun rose over the Pacific Ocean. That's so weird.  Gotta look at a map to get it!

                                                      Santa Catalina

     Off to the next destination, the surfing  hot spot of Santa Catalina..  We're not into surfing, just beaches.   That required driving another leg on the Interamerican Highway, getting lost going through a city again, and turning south beyond Santiago.  It was somewhere around there we got lost again.  Try getting directions when you don't speak Spanish.  Eventually we found the road and when in doubt at intersections there was usually somebody at a bus stop who pointed the way to Santa Catalina.   That was another long ride.  The road is a bit narrow and it twists and turns, but it's paved right to the beach.

     Picture a tropical beach town.  How does it look in your mind?  Well, it's some beach, somewhere, but not here.  There are no topical resorts lining the beach, one questionable  beach bar, a few equally questionable restaurants, one mini-mini-mini-mart, several surf shops, barking dogs, wandering children and roosters.  We drove out of town a bit and back, trying to get the lay of the land.  We decided on an in-town location, Rollo's Hostal.

     It's interesting how perspective changes when you're rested and an area becomes familiar.  We spent four nights at Rollo's.  Our private bath room was clean, air conditioned, and quiet, and there was fresh good coffee in the common kitchen in the morning.  We explored Santa Catalina on foot and found a couple of decent restaurants, a guy to take us fishing, a tour to take us to Isla de Coiba to go snorkeling, and a panaderia for muffins.  The locals were friendly, there was a laid back police presence, and the gringos  were mostly surfer dudes and girls from many foreign countries, and  ex-pats.  And then were Joe and me.

     If we had been there to surf we'd have been quite disappointed.  The surfers were hanging out waiting for the big ones, but the waves were fine for body surfing.  The sand is dark but the water was clear and very warm.  We didn't do much beach sitting because the sun is so hot.

     The snorkeling trip was a long day but well worth the bone-jarring  hour and half ride out to Coiba.  On the way out we encountered a group of whales quite near the boat so the captain shut the engine and we watched for a few minutes. Coiba is a large protected island about twenty-five miles off the coast of Santa Catalina.  It's largely uninhabited so the natural flora and fauna are undisturbed.  You can stay at the ranger station and take hikes into the interior of the island, but it's rugged and the fauna is not so friendly.  As well as monkeys and sloths there are several varieties of poisonous snakes, crocodiles, alligators, and cayman.  Joe and I have had one cayman encounter too many so that excursion was out! (See our Ecuador blog of the jungle.)  At the ranger station by the beach there was a sign saying not to swim because of the cocodiles.  No worries.

     Our snorkeling adventure was around other smaller islands.  The water was clear and the fish were abundant.  Our only criticism is that there was a strong current running along the backside of one of the small islands.  I'm a very strong swimmer but Joe had quite a hard time for a few minutes.  After stopping at three different snorkeling sights we rested  in the shade of the palms on an idyllic beach.  Joe and I took a walk to along the beach to small stream leading back to a fresh water lagoon.  At the edge of the stream leading to the ocean were very large creature footprints.  They were bigger than my hand and had claws. I could see where a tail had dragged between these claw prints. My first thought was "Oh shit.  Not another cayman!"  No, not a cayman, a crocodile. Two of them.  But we didn't see them.  Somebody approached us and confirmed the presence of these creatures.  Without hesitation we rejoined the other lounging snorkelers, climbed aboard the boat and headed back to Santa Catalina.

This is how the local get gas for there boats.  The nearest gas station is miles away.

Joe always like a fishing trip so naturally he found a local with a boat to take us out for two hours.   I found watching the local fishermen getting their boats ready for the day more interesting than fishing.  We caught two fish:  Mine was long and skinny with lots of teeth which got thrown back, but Joe caught a nice big mackerel.  We gave that one to the boat captain.

The last evening we were in Santa Catalina we went to local bar/restaurant which had been advertising reggae music, good pizza and drinks on special.  The music, which was supposed to start at 8:00, never got going until 9:30.  It seems they forgot to get a permit but the police told them to wait until 9:30 then the music could begin.  Maybe that's when the police went off duty.  The waitress kept bringing us free drinks to ensure we'd stay until the music got going.  "Don't go guys.  Music start soon."   Pretty soon the place was packed with mostly gringo surfer dudes and girls, and finally the music began.  It started with a Bob Marley song, but the singer read the words off his i-pod.  Clearly this wasn't going to be reggae for long.  It wasn't.  There was a Guns and Roses song, then a few Spanish songs, and a couple of songs we didn't know (no surprise there).  The first set closed with "The Summer of '69".  We're pretty sure we were the only ones in there that remembered the summer of '69 so we figured it was time to leave the partying to the kids. 

Sunday morning we packed our stuff and left the heat of the coast behind for Boquete, a town in the mountains between the Pacific and the Caribbean shores.

We saw many cows being moved via trucks and cowboys. There are a couple of guys on horses here, too but they don't show in the picture.  Many locals travel by horseback.

We saw a lot of these hawks.

El Valle de Anton

                                   El Valle de Anton

     Once we got the car we were off and away from Panama City.  We knew the Pan American Highway Bridge was a crowded mess as we had seen it from our hotel so we drove north along the canal beyond the Miraflores Locks to the other bridge that spans the Panama Canal.  That road then heads south to the Pan American Highway. (We have a map!)  The Pan American Highway crosses Panama from the bridge in Panama City all the way into Costa Rica and beyond.  It's a lot like the old Route 1 with businesses accessed right from the highway.  Easy to find lunch.

     About an hour out of Panama City we turned off the highway and drove into the hills on a twisty, well maintained road. Our destination was El Valle, a small town in the remains of an ancient crater.  El Valle is surrounded by high mountains and jagged peaks so we really feel like we're in a crater. I like geology so I think it's interesting!  The climate is different from the coast in that it's much cooler, and in the evening you need long pants and a sweater.  Since it's the dry season it is also extremely windy.  The wind ROARS down the hills day and night.

     After stocking up on a few necessary items like adult beverages and snacks at the super mercado we found our way to the Golden Frog, very nice hotel run by American ex-pats.  This is the last of our reservations until the end of our trip.  By the time we got organized, lounged by the pool which was very chilly, it was time for the hotel cocktail hour.  We met our hotel neighbors and chatted with our hosts, met the ever-so-colorful resident parrot, then drove into town for pizza.  How Panamanian.

In the morning we headed out for a jaunt to the local Sunday market where indigenous folks bring their wares and food to sell.  After the incredible  indigenous market we found in Ecuador, this one was a bit of a let-down.   But we wandered the town then found our way to the Orchid garden and the zoo to try to see the symbol of Panama, the golden frog. There's a big habitat set up for this rare amphibian, but it is so good we couldn't find it anywhere.  Oh well. Time for an adult beverage by the pool.

     The following day we wanted to do a few hikes to waterfalls and maybe go to the mud baths and hot springs. Our hostess gave us a map with suggestions.  We were off to see, of all things, the square trees.  Apparently there's something about the environment in which they grow that makes these trees have square bases. Not much of a big deal but it was a walk in the forest.  We were told to watch for snakes so we don't step on any.  Great. I found a branch and used it to swish the trail as I went along.  Joe had to tease me about how the snakes weren't going to be lying in the middle of the trail but he let me go first!  And what was lying in the middle of the trail??? A big green vine snake.  No snakes on the trail, huh?  I also uncovered a newly shed shake skin, that in my teacher days I would have kept. 

   We also encountered a trail of leaf  cutter ants carrying their over sized loads back to the nest. Most were carrying  green leaf pieces like little flags, but some were lugging flowers.  Joe thought they might be preparing for a festival.

The square trees are only square at their base.

After surviving the square tree trail we headed for Macho Falls and arrived just as a tour bus of Japanese tourists arrived.  So much for that plan.  There are more than one waterfall in town, and there's a panaderia, too. What delicious baked goods they have!The bread is wonderful, and so are the cookies and the sweet rolls and the cakes.

There are ancient petroglyphs carved on this boulder.  It's on the way to a waterfall.

 

I found the snake skin on the other side of this foot bridge.

We never did get to the mud baths and hot springs but there are more to be found in Panama.  Next we are going to explore a bit of the coast.


This huge toad was on the steps leading to our room.

The Saga of the Car

                                                 The Saga of the Car

 

 

After returning to the Flamingo Marina following our partial  Panama Canal transit we went on a taxi hunt.  Actually the trick was finding a cab driver who actually knew where the car rental office was.  Yes, we did have the address in downtown Panama City.  I'll tell you we were none too keen on driving back to the hotel after having experienced the city traffic, especially the  late afternoon traffic.   We found a cabbie who said he knew where we needed to go.  He really didn't but eventually we got to Acme Car Rental.  Of course they had no record of our reservation, but I did.  Not that it helped because they only had one manual shift vehicle and I was specific about an automatic.  Joe said he couldn't drive a manual.  (Of course he can but in this traffic, he wasn't about to even try.)  So the high heeled young lady in charge said they'd have our car tomorrow.  We said ok.  Deliver it to our hotel, and by the way, deliver us to the hotel now.  That seemed ok with the rental agency, and we were just as happy with that arrangement. (We acted miffed, though!)

 

After keeping us waiting several minutes High Heels returns with a new plan.  A bigger automatic car had been retuned and we could have that one.  Hmmm?  It was dirty and not too new.  We said no.  We want the car we had reserved.  (We also wanted it delivered and we wanted a ride back to the hotel.)  Suddenly this wasn't ok.  We told her to cancel the whole reservation.

 There we were with no car and no plan, standing on the city sidewalk in a rather dumpy part of Panama City.  But, aha, there were lots of taxis so back to the Country Inn and Suites we went.  A quick room turn around and we were floating in the nice warm pool.  Time to regroup.  Refreshed, we returned to the room, got on the computer and found a fine car at Ace Rental at the nearby, easy-to-get-to domestic airport.  Online reservation and confirmation was for Saturday morning.  We were all set and it was  time for an adult beverage.

     Friday was an easy morning around the pool and an afternoon cab into Casco Viejo (old part of the city) for lunch and more sightseeing.  We found the fish market with dorado, squid, octopus, sharks, and lots of ceviche interesting, but not appetizing.  Many locals were buying fish to take home, and even more were crowded around tables eating cooked whole fish.  Again, interesting but not too appetizing.

     Ah, but I digress.  Back to the car.  Saturday morning arrives and we check out, anxious to be on our way to discover the more rural Panama.  We had had enough of the city.  Ruben, our cab driver for the second time, I might add, gave us helpful hints to get us away from the airport and off in the direction we needed to go.  At the airport he pointed us in the direction of Ace Auto Rental and waved us on our way.  Once inside the airport we started down the row of car rental booths.  Not finding it we asked directions only to be told, "Oh they are closed.  Gone.  Not here anymore."      HUH?  "Closed.  Gone.  Look, here's the booth."  Sure enough.  The booth with the Ace rental sign was completely stripped.   Doesn't that just figure?

Joe and stood looking at each other, almost laughing. (almost)    So who needs a car reservation, anyway?  National Car rental had a car, a bit bigger but rather new, and bit more pricey, but hey, we have a car and at this point we are in a lovely town of El Valle de Anton, at the Golden Frog, a lovely hotel.  It was a lovely ride through the hills once off the Pan American highway.  Here we'll be for a few nights.

Panama Canal

Thursday January 16, 2014

                                    The Panama Canal

Boarding the vessel at the end of the dock

     Two days before our 9 AM scheduled partial transit of the Panama Canal we received an email stating our trip had been to rescheduled to 7AM due to low water in Lake Gatun.  So after an early wake up call and an early breakfast we arrived at the dock right on time, as the sun was rising over the Pacific Ocean.  Panama is "S"shaped  so the sun appears to be rising in the west.  To go from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean ships travel the canal from south to north.

Pilot coming aboard

     We left the dock at 8AM and met our pilot at the entrance to the canal.  Every boat that transits the canal MUST employ a pilot who is in charge of the vessel from one end to the other.  At the entrance to the canal is a large mooring field where many ships were awaiting clearance to begin their trip.  Most ships with perishable goods and cruise ships make reservations many months in advance, paying a premium to do so.  Ships are charged by their length and their cargo.  Cruise ships generally pay the most, usually more than $300,000 (that's not a typo). The highest price ever paid was $400,000.  The vessel in which we were cruising is charged $4000 for a round trip partial transit.  The Panama Canal revenue averages about $6,000,000 per day.  And why did we give this to Panama?


A PanaMax entering the Miraflores Lock.  Ahead are two ships in a nearly full lock.  The left one is a car carrier.  Note the ramp attached at the stern.

Pleasure craft is attached to our vessel while in the lock.  It picked up passengers in Gamboa, the end of our trip, and headed back immediately.

     Our assigned lock mates were a chemical carrying tanker with its accompanying tug and a large pleasure craft which was tied to us in the locks.  We went through the three locks to the midpoint of the canal Gamboa  on Lake Gatun with these boats. Boats don't generally go through the locks with tugs but since the ship we were with was carrying hazardous material it had to have tug, and there was a fire truck that drove next to it as it went through the locks.  Usually ships are guided into the locks and kept from hitting the sides (only about two feet on each side to spare) by "mules", locomotive type of machines that are driven on tracks.

Locks are closing




The chemical tanker is ahead of our boat.  Notice the "mules" on either side of it to keep it from hitting the sides of the locks.  It's a tight fit, only two feet on either side.

The lock is almost full.  There's a PanaMax in the lock next to us.

Looking back at full locks

Construction of new canal  along the Panama Canal

      In a lock next to us was a PamaMax, the name given to large tankers that are of maximum size to fit in a lock.  Because of the limiting size of the locks super tankers carrying goods bound for one coast or the other must off load their cargo and ship it to destinations via trains.  Along the one hundred year old Panama Canal another canal is being dug.  This one is designed to accommodate these super tankers.

     Once out of all three locks responsible for lifting the ships to the level of Lake Gatun, somewhat less than 100 feet, ships must navigate the cut carved through the mountains to Lake Gatun. Due to the winding narrow passage every ship except the cruise ships, must have a tug  attached to its stern.  The tug isn't tugging or pushing.  It's just there in case of an emergency, and the cost is $3000 per hour.  Transiting the canal is a very costly endeavor.

Entering the cut between the locks and Lake Gatun.  That used to be all one hill which is now separated by the canal  Most ships are required to have an accompanying tug just in case of emergencies through this narrow passage..

Tug accompanying a ship through the cut.

     As we passed through the canal we saw tankers, cruise ships, a sailboat or two, and two large awkward looking car carriers which could hold up to nearly 50,000 cars. Needless to say we found the trip fascinating.  Joe and I remained on deck for nearly the entire windy, hot trip.   We were offered breakfast but passed on that, but we did go into the dining room for lunch. Ahh... air conditioning!  Our trip to the half way point in the canal took a little over six hours.  A full transit made by cargo ships and passenger ships usually takes ten to twelve hours.  At the end of the trip we were transported via air conditioned buses to our starting point at Flamingo Marina on the Amador Causeway. From here we took a cab to pick up our car for the remainder of the trip.  That's the next story!

Passing a cruise ship

 

 From our hotel balcony I snapped this early morning picture of a cruise ship entering the Panama Canal.

 

 

 

And a little later, this one

 

 

 

 

 

Panama City

                                          Panama City

     Getting here was slick.  The planes were on time and we went through the fast security lanes which meant we kept our shoes on, our computer packed, and kept our little tubes of toiletries in our bag. No line, no waiting.  The cab to the Country Inn and Suites was easy enough, but the traffic in Panama City was some of the worst we've ever seen.  Tucked away in the back of my mind was the fact we were going to pick up a car downtown in a few days and try to find our way back to the inn.  We'll worry about that later.

       Panama City is what I picture Dubai looking like with tall building of unusual shapes rising above the sea.  One even has a corkscrew shape.  From a distance it appears clean and modern but the taxi ride through the city toward the canal and our inn revealed a less savory side of the city, one of slums and poverty.  Guide books warn of staying far from these unsafe areas.

     The first evening we strolled the safer area of the Old City.  It's being rejuvenated, and many of the old structures are under construction. The following day, Wednesday, we decided a hop-on hop-off bus would be the best way to check out the city.  There are two buses; one does the canal route, the other does the city route.  We walked from our hotel to get the canal route bus then switched to the city route bus at a downtown location.  It was a traffic-slow ride around the city.  Back on the canal route bus we went to the Miraflores Locks along the Panama Canal.  There we spent an hour watching a 3-D movie about the canal, and enjoying the view of the double locks and scenery.  Tomorrow, Thursday, we would be going through these locks on our canal transit tour.   When we'd had enough of the city and touring The Country Inn and Suites has a lovely pool overlooking the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal.